¾ cup sugar
2 tablespoons salt
2 racks pork baby-back ribs (about 4 pounds)

In a large bowl or sealable plastic bag, combine the sugar and salt and stir or shake to mix. Cut the pork racks in half or into thirds so that they fit in the bowl or bag. Add the ribs and toss or shake to distribute the sugar mixture evenly over the surface. Let stand, refrigerated, for 2 hours or up to 4 hours. The sugar mixture will dissolve, and the pork will turn bright pink and release some of its juices.

Barbecue Glaze:
½ cup hoisin sauce
¼ cup soy sauce
¼ cup Thai-style sweet chile sauce
2 cloves garlic, minced
2 tablespoons minced fresh ginger
2 tablespoons sugar
1 teaspoon toasted sesame oil
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

¼ cup sesame seeds, toasted, for garnish

Combine the hoisin sauce, soy sauce, chile sauce, garlic, ginger, sugar, sesame oil, and pepper in a bowl and whisk until smooth. Cover and refrigerate until ready to use.

Preheat oven to 300 degrees. Remove the ribs from the sugar mixture and pat dry with paper towels. Arrange on an aluminum foil-lined baking sheet and brush both sides of the ribs with about 1 cup of the barbecue glaze. Cover loosely with plastic wrap and let stand at room temperature for 20 minutes.

Remove plastic wrap and bake the ribs, basting with the pan juices every 30 minutes, until the ribs are tender, 1½ to 2 hours. If the pan gets too dry and the juices begin to burn, add up to 1 cup of water and scrape and stir to dilute the caramelized sauce. Remove from the oven and let sit, covered with aluminum foil, until ready to grill.

Preheat charcoal or gas grill to medium-hot. Grill the ribs, turning and brushing with the reserved barbecue glaze, until dark golden brown, about 25 minutes. Check the meat often, as the sugar in the glaze can burn quickly. Transfer the ribs to a cutting board and let rest for 10 minutes.

To serve, sprinkle the ribs with the toasted sesame seeds, cut the racks into individual ribs, and arrange on a platter. Serve hot, warm, or at room temperature.